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History and heritage in Hvar 

This culturally rich Croatian island is brimming with an array of stories, traditions, crafts and UNESCO-listed sites. Wanderlust’s special features managing editor, Rosie Fitzgerald, asks locals how best to understand and explore them for yourself

Rosie Fitzgerald
12 June 2025
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The village of Velo Grablje is one of the best-preserved examples of dry stone wall construction in Croatia (Shutterstock)
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Ivo Zaninović on… Dry stone walling

Ivo Zaninović demonstrates some of the fundamental techniques of dry stone walling, which can be seen in workshops at the newly opened Dry Stone Park in Velo Grablje (Visit Hvar)

“On Hvar, the dry stone tradition is unique because the entire landscape consists of rocky terrain. Farmers had to extract all the stones from the ground to create fertile soil for cultivation. At the same time, they used these stones to build the incredible walls seen all over the island. Dry stone walls must be preserved as a tribute to the hard work of our ancestors. For us, they are on the same level as the Great Wall of China.

“The best place to see dry stone walls is in Velo Grablje, in the newly opened Dry Stone Park. Here, you’ll find beautiful examples of dry stone terraces and lace-like structures. Beyond the stunning landscape, one highlight is a 111-year-old lime kiln that has been preserved.

“Everyone is welcome to participate by joining a walk through the park or taking part in dry stone walling workshops, especially during Dry Stone Days on Hvar, held once a year in April.

“Visiting Hvar without placing a stone in a dry stone lace wall is like never having been here at all!”

Ivo Zaninović Grande is the president of the Association for the Protection and Revitalization of Velo Grablje

Hvar lace making

The sisters of the Benedictine Monastery and Church of St Anthony the Abbot make their lace in silence, prayer and meditation (Saša Ćetković)

“We have been making lace from agave thread continuously for almost 150 years. The tradition of making lace from agave thread originated in a monastery. One of the unique aspects of our lace-making is that we do not use store-bought thread; instead, the sisters extract and prepare fibres from the agave plant themselves. Since the fibre is natural and delicate, it breaks easily, so lace-making requires patience and precision. When the north wind blows, agave fibres break easily, whereas when the south wind blows and the air is humid, they are much more resilient. It is not easy to make lace during strong northern winds, but we still continue our work.

“The sisters work in silence, prayer and meditation. We also pray for the person who will purchase the lace so that God’s blessing may enter their home. Our focus is not on quantity but on quality and love for the craft. Every sister incorporates something personal into her work, and each of the three lace-making techniques [is most suited to] different sisters. Each sister creates from memory and imagination, which makes every lace piece unique and special.

“Agave lace is an art form and cannot be used for any practical purposes, as it cannot be washed or ironed. As an artistic piece, it is preserved and protected under glass, and it is usually framed and displayed as a picture on the wall. Visitors can learn more about agave lace at our museum, and can sometimes see part of the lace-making process when one of our sisters works in the museum during the summer months. Our agave lace is exclusively available for purchase at our museum and monastery.

“Preserving and continuing the tradition of agave lace-making is important to us because it is part of our cultural heritage and identity. We are proud of our monastery and the sisters who passed down this unique artistic heritage, and we hope to continue this tradition for future generations.”

Told to us by a spokesperson from the Benedictine Monastery and Church of St Anthony the Abbot, Hvar

Antonio Škarpa on… Following the Cross Procession

The Za Križem procession dates back to the first half of the 16th century and proceeds through six villages on Hvar (Ivo Pervan)

“I’ve been participating in the Za Križen procession since early childhood. The procession passes through six villages on the island of Hvar – Vrboska, Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče and Vrbanj. I’ve been connected to the village of Vrbanj since birth; it’s where I was baptised. My love for this procession was instilled in me from a young age, mainly thanks to my grandparents, but also my parents.

“I first walked the entire route when I was about eight or nine years old. At the final station, a fellow villager had to carry me because I was so tired. Before that, I participated stage by stage – first walking only to the neighbouring Vrboska, and the next year all the way to Jelsa. As I grew older and my faith in God deepened, my reasons for participating changed. In the beginning, it was about tradition and wanting to be part of something cherished by my loved ones. Today, it’s a profound spiritual need and a deep sense of gratitude that I carry in my heart.

“The Za Križem procession dates back to the first half of the 16th century, with historical documents confirming its age and continuity. It is a five-century-old devotion centred on the cross, led by a cross-bearer accompanied by torch and candle bearers dressed in white tunics. The deep-rooted nature of the procession in the islanders’ consciousness was evident even during the war year of 1944. Although the procession couldn’t take place on the island that year, refugees from the six parishes held the procession in exile in El Shatt [a refugee camp in Egypt where residents of Dalmatia were evacuated in 1944]. The crosses used in that procession are preserved in the local churches, serving as a lasting reminder of faith and unity.

“Everyone who participates in the procession carries within them a profound sense of responsibility – to ensure everything runs smoothly, to maintain the unbroken chain of tradition and faith in Christ. It’s as if the original vow to keep this procession alive has been deeply embedded in the collective consciousness of the people, who cannot imagine life without this sacred annual devotion.

“The Za Križem procession is neither a show nor a tourist attraction; it is an all-night journey with Christ and a deeply spiritual experience that invites us to pause, look within, and reflect on who we are as people. It offers a chance to emerge from the night changed and filled with understanding, compassion and greater tolerance for others.

“Everyone is welcome to participate in the procession, whether they come from afar or are local islanders… Anyone wishing to attend should come with an open heart and a respectful spirit. You’ll experience something beyond words, a moment that will stay with you for life, bringing peace, strength and renewed faith in a better tomorrow.”

Antonio Škarpa is the Mayor of the town of Stari Grad

Jurica Hraste on… Klapa singing

Traditional Dalmatian klapa singing is usually performed in groups of between four and ten people, who are typically friends, and is strengthened by the sense of community inherent in these groups (Alamy)

“Klapa singing is a traditional form of multi-voice singing specific to coastal towns and islands, especially in Dalmatia, although it has spread to other parts of Croatia. A klapa consists of a group of people – usually friends – who come together to sing. They are typically amateurs, but the stronger their bond, the better their performance.

“The term klapa comes from this idea of connection, as members are brought together more by friendship than by vocal skill or formal training. The lyrics are mostly about love, and over time, klapa singing has evolved from a traditional folk practice to a more professional form, incorporating sheet music and expert guidance.”

Jurica Hraste is a member of Klapa Pharia

Kristijan Rojnica on… The Mediterranean diet

Hvar’s cuisine is a mix of Mediterranean flavours, heavily influenced by the sea and the seasonal produce of the island (Visit Hvar)

“My earliest culinary influences weren’t found in professional kitchens but at home, in the warmth of my grandmother’s and mother’s cooking. Both women worked tirelessly from a young age. I found myself stepping into the kitchen not just out of necessity, but out of genuine curiosity and care. Cooking for the family became a daily rhythm and a way to contribute, connect and, eventually, express myself. Those early experiences – learning how to stretch ingredients, season by instinct and respect the time and effort behind each dish – laid the foundation for everything that followed. It was in those formative moments, stirring pots after school or watching dough rise on a sunny windowsill, that my love for cooking truly took root.

“At its heart, the Mediterranean diet is about simplicity and quality. Meals are built around fresh vegetables, fruits, legumes, nuts, seeds, whole grains and olive oil – often sourced locally and prepared seasonally. It’s as much about how you eat as what you eat. Meals are traditionally shared with family and friends, enjoyed slowly, and are often accompanied by conversation and, sometimes, a glass of wine. This social element is believed to support both mental and digestive health. Each region around the Mediterranean – from Dalmatia to Crete to southern Italy – brings its own interpretations and ingredients. Yet they all share a deep respect for food as something seasonal, honest and connected to land and sea.

“At the core of every dish are the ingredients. For me, that means celebrating the best of what Croatia has to offer. I work almost exclusively with fresh, local produce, and I have a particular love for Adriatic fish and raw seafood, which I treat with the utmost respect.

“Wine plays a central role in both pairing and preparation, adding depth and regional identity to each meal. Most importantly, I cook with the seasons. Nature sets the pace, and I believe true creativity lies in responding to what the land and sea provide – not forcing flavours out of context, but elevating them with care, technique and a bit of soul.”

Kristijan Rojnica is the founder of private-chef.com

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