Destination guide: Međimurje

The region of Međimurje in northernmost Croatia almost feels as if it has been lifted from the pages of a Tolkien novel, with wildflower-strewn meadows, medieval castles and vineyards that stretch lazily across the landscape. Nestled between the mighty Mura and Drava rivers, it is steeped in local folklore, tradition and ancient legends. It is also criminally overlooked by visitors.

Međimurje is not a place for ticking off bucket-list landmarks; however, it does boast miles of dreamy scenery. Situated at the crossroads of Central Europe, there are centuries-old traditions, a vibrant slow food culture and mineral-rich thermal waters.

Often dubbed the ‘Garden of Croatia’, organic farm-to-table dining and the ancient art of winemaking are a part of everyday life here. You can work up an appetite by hiking or biking through the impressive nature reserves, exploring 16th-century fortresses or simply wandering trails alongside the rivers, which play an oversized role in Međimurje’s folklore – through tales of fairies and the Drava monster – before unwinding at one of the region’s mineral-rich spas.

Međimurje has long been known for its healing waters, and nowhere is this more elaborately realised than at Terme Sveti Martin. Inspired by Rudolf Steiner’s philosophy, the ‘Temple of Life’ indoor pools are bathed in natural light, with panoramic windows that make you feel like you’re floating in the middle of a forest.

Oenophiles will love the Štrigova Wine Roads, a scenic route through rolling vineyards that spans dozens of wineries and more than 30 tasting houses and cellars. This is the heart of Međimurje’s winemaking culture, where pušipel, the region’s signature white grape, takes centre stage. Other traditions that have stood the test of time are lacemaking, intricate gingerbread houses, pottery and handmade wooden toys.

Elsewhere, the city of Čakovec is currently reinventing itself. Once an industrial hub, it’s now brimming with fresh energy and a mix of old-world charm and new creativity. The Stari Hrast Pub, housed in a former factory, serves craft beer brewed on-site, which is perfect for a laid-back introduction to the region’s emerging beer scene. From there, a short stroll leads you to Čakovec Castle (Zrinski Castle), a magnificent Renaissance fortress steeped in history. This once belonged to the powerful Zrinski family; today it houses the Međimurje County Museum, where you can learn about the region’s intriguing folklore.

Međimurje is full of hidden gems, ranging from traditional working mills and underground wine vaults to ancient forests and thermal springs. Take a step back in time at one of the last-remaining floating mills in Central Europe. Suspended over the  Mura River, the mill continues to grind grain into flour just as it did centuries ago – and visitors can even buy some to take home!

From here, take a leisurely stroll along the Miller’s Path, which winds past a stunning oxbow lake covered in blooming water lilies. Known locally as mrtvica (‘dead stream’), it is actually remarkably full of life.

Learn about local folk traditions at Ethno House Međimurski Dvori. This charming estate is a step back in time and features hand-embroidered costumes, antique tools and traditional wooden houses, meaning visitors can explore how life once looked.

Whilst Terme Sveti Martin may be the most well-known spa here, the Vučkovci Spa, dating back to 1936, is another gem and is ideal for those seeking relaxation in a quieter setting. For a truly immersive wine experience, visit Terbotz Manor House in Železna Gora. Here you’ll find a museum-like wine cellar that showcases bottles from across Međimurje. Book a tasting in their atmospheric surroundings and enjoy the impressive vineyard view.

While card payments are widely accepted in cities, rural areas often prefer cash, and uttering a “Hvala” (thank you) or a “Molim” (please) goes a long way. You may be offered Međimurska rakija as a welcome drink; it is an offer worth accepting, as this potent brandy is delicious! Keep an eye out too for ‘black gold’, a tasty local pumpkin seed oil that is drizzled over salads, cheeses or warm bread.