I was drawn to Sol y Luna – a family-run hotel and member of the prestigious Relais & Chateau collection – with visions of post-trek pampering in Peru’s Sacred Valley, but what I found went far beyond an indulgent retreat. Over the course of my stay, it became clear the hotel’s appeal lies not only in its refined hospitality, but in its compelling origin story, philanthropic values, and integration of Andean culture – elements that create an experience rooted in both purpose and place.
Opened 25 years ago by co-founders Petit and Franz, Sol y Luna trailblazed not only as the first upmarket hotel in Urumbamba – the gateway town to Machu Picchu – but as a fundraising initiative supporting some of Peru’s poorest children. Following 10 years of success, the husband-wife team realised their community project could make an even greater impact and decided to open their own school. Today, the Sol y Luna Foundation includes an intercultural school, a graduate support programme, an orphanage and a centre for children with disabilities (the latter named ‘Paqari’, meaning ‘rebirth’ in Quechua, the native language). Hotel profits, plus any voluntary contributions from guests, goes straight back into supporting these life-changing facilities.
The school is located on the same tiny sideroad as the hotel and welcomes guests to visit and meet the children, many of whom come from backgrounds of extreme poverty; some who have experienced unthinkable abuse. During my visit, I witnessed classrooms full of confident, sparkly-eyed students from the ages of four to 16, all absorbed in learning and keen to interact. “We love it when guests come and speak to the children, it gives them the opportunity to dream,” Kelly, the charity coordinator, told me. Visitors may inspire the kids, but in turn, guests will come away with a sense of meaning, knowing their stay at Sol y Luna truly will make a difference to these young lives.
“I was impacted by the inequality and poverty in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. I have never understood the lottery of life. Why I had education and opportunities and others didn’t. All my life, I have wanted to do something that benefits others, not just myself, and education is a way to create social mobility and give people the tools to create the future they choose” – Sol y Luna Co-Founder Petit Miribel
Community is at the core of Sol y Luna, and this feeling is brought inside the hotel walls. Consisting of 43 casitas (little houses), the layout creates an atmosphere akin to a small village. Charming terracotta-roof bungalows are dotted along a stone path that weaves through a 25-hectare garden, home to flowers that thrive in this high-altitude environment (2,800 metres). It’s a joy to wander around: the contrasts of native plants and their colours are a feast for the eyes, ranging from a showstopping cacti archway to fluorescent Bougainville. Red-tinged mountains with agricultural terraces and pre-Colombian ruins encircle the resort for an unbeatable backdrop.
The three room types include Superior, Deluxe, and Premium. My Deluxe King Casita had an open wood-burning fireplace, heated floors, an enormous walk-in wardrobe and a marble-tiled bathroom with stand-alone tub – a heavenly retreat when the evening air turns chilly. The private patio provided an idyllic morning spot for catching the flitting movements of giant hummingbirds and other colourful avian species: the birdwatching guide in my room listed up to 35.
Despite featuring the must-have amenities of any luxury hotel, including its pretty centrepiece pool, Sol y Luna exhibits authentic Andean heritage throughout its design. Buildings, such as the onsite spa, restaurants and stables, are all named after natural elements – integral to the Incan Empire. Contemporary folk art and crafts by local artists are displayed throughout the hotel, from woven tapestries to long vertical slats of wood hand-painted with figures from Peruvian culture. Stand-out pieces include sculptures by artist Federico Bauer, particularly his comical, spacehopper ball-bellied musicians that greet you at reception.
“My husband Franz and I moved to the Sacred Valley almost 30 years ago. At that time, there were no luxury hotels in the area, yet we were the gateway to Machu Picchu. Having founded the Sol y Luna Foundation, we needed funds, and decided that opening a hotel would be a good way to generate an income for the foundation” – Sol y Luna Co-Founder Petit Mribel
More nods to Peruvian tradition can be tasted at the hotel’s two onsite restaurants – Killa Wasi and Wayra. The former is a fine-dining establishment, serving contemporary, gourmet versions of classic yet rustic Andean dishes (you’ll likely see alpaca and guinea pig on the menu) and flavourful cocktails (try the pisco sour). Wayra is considered a more casual affair, with burgers and pizzas up for grabs, yet each dish is still beautifully constructed. The restaurant teams are on-hand to suggest suitable wines to match each course (I had my first taste of the region’s unique potato wine here). Agriculture is a prominent part of the Sacred Valley’s heritage, and Sol y Luna continues to champion this at both restaurants, sourcing organic ingredients from local farmers.
It’s possible to book a Machu Picchu expedition with Sol y Luna, along with many other varied adventures. I explored the local town on horseback, riding one of the hotel’s own Peruvian Pasos that live at the onsite ranch. On my guided ride, we spoke with local farmers and trotted into the terraced hills, viewing Urubamba from above. Experiences can be tailored to individual guest’s interests, whether wanting to visit a hummingbird sanctuary or the Salineras de Maras (prehispanic salt mines). Other adrenaline-fuelled activities include e-biking, kayaking and even paragliding – the latter is a unique way for guests to experience the valley in all its glory.
After an active day out, returning to Sol y Luna feels like a warm hug. Tired muscles can be soothed at the onsite spa with a menu of treatments and massages, or soaked in the outdoor jacuzzi: I recommend taking an evening dip as the air turns crisp, so you can gaze up at the inky, star-studded sky imagining how the Incas would have worshipped these same constellations more than 500 years ago.
More information: Superior Rooms start from US $483 (£355) per night. The author stayed in a Deluxe King Room, with prices starting from US$822 (£600) per night. Learn more at hotelsolyluna.com.
You can support the education, housing and wellbeing of the Sacred Valley’s children by contributing to the foundation at asociacionsolyluna.com
