Exploring the Via Transilvanica, a new 1,400km trail through Romania

Transylvania has long been a place apart. It’s a timeless landscape where transport is often by horse and cart, harvesting is done by scythe, the food is homemade and shepherds still watch over their flocks by night. But ask most non-Romanians in the street whether they’ve heard of it and the answer is likely to be yes, followed by the question: “But is it real or make-believe?”

The semi-mythical profile of this unspoilt ‘land between the forests’, larger than Austria and filled with bears and wolves, effectively cuts it loose from the map. Few can identify exactly where it lies, or even to which country it belongs; all they know is that it’s rich in monsters. This is largely thanks to the success of Bram Stoker’s late-19th-century novel, Dracula – whose titular count hails from here – but it is also because of the region’s colourful history.

Transylvania was once part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, though it is now wholly within the borders of Romania. And yet, under the broad Romanian umbrella, there are still Hungarian-speaking villages, Roma settlements and ‘Saxon villages’ originally settled by German speakers. It’s a potent stew of cultures and myths.

Over the years, however, a lot of traditional Transylvanian lifestyles have been eroded, as villagers were enticed abroad by higher wages. To counter that, and to showcase the best of the region, two Romanian brothers have launched the Via Transilvanica, a new trail that sashays across the region for 1,400km, from the north-east tip to the south-west corner.

The story of the brothers themselves feeds into the route’s mythology. It is the brainchild of Tibi Uşeriu, a hardcore adventurer and reformed ex-convict, and his brother Alin. Together they wanted to find a way to help preserve the region’s struggling rural communities.

The pathway lopes over some of Europe’s most unspoilt hills, meadows and forests. The landscape is spectacular, which is perhaps why King Charles III is a regular visitor – he has even bought houses here. The trail is designed for cycling and horse riding as well as hiking, and the route is marked every 50m or so. Hand-carved stones, spaced a kilometre apart, create what is probably the longest art gallery in the world.

A comprehensive downloadable guide (viatransilvanica.com/en/vt-guide) divides the route into seven thematic regional sections: Bucovina, the Highland Region, Terra Siculorum, Terra Saxonum, Terra Dacica, Terra Banatica and Terra Romana. Each is sub-divided into day stages of roughly 25km each, accompanied by recommended overnight stays – mostly village guesthouses that serve their own homemade food and drink (the local plum brandy, palinka, really packs a punch).

There are occasional hazards. Signs warn of the presence of bears, but these are mostly extremely shy creatures. More of an issue are the shepherds’ dogs, which are trained to defend wandering flocks from all-comers, so it makes sense to carry a stick in case they come too close. The people, on the other hand, will always be delighted to see you.

It would be quite an undertaking to walk all 1,400km of the trail, so we’ve chosen to spotlight three of the most easily accessible sections: Bucovina in the north-east is close to Suceava airport; Terra Saxonum lies around Sighișoara and is accessed via the airport at Brașov; and lastly, Terra Dacica, the penultimate section, lies down in the south-west and can be reached from Sibiu airport.

Bucovina

This 136km section of the route has proved the most popular so far, partly because it is the first, so hikers intending to eventually do the whole trail typically start here. The nearest section to Suceava airport is at the mountain village of Suceviţa, an hour’s bus or taxi ride away.

The forested and mountainous Bucovina region hosts some of Romania’s wildest hiking and is rich in painted churches and monasteries. The latter are particularly prominent in Putna, whose accommodation is among the trail guide’s advised places to stay. The monastery at Moldoviţa is impressive for its frescoes and is one of a number of sites in the area that has been collectively recognised by UNESCO. You can also ride on the much-loved Mocăniţa Huţulca narrow-gauge steam train, which was originally built to carry timber and runs 12km through the forests to Argel village.

This is largely a trail section of mountain passes and ridges that occasionally breaks clear of the trees. The ski resort at Vatra Dornei is a gem; look out too for the town of Poiana Negri, which is known for its mineral water and mountain sports.

This 193km section of the route is filled with UNESCO-listed fortified churches and handsome pastel-painted villages. It is best reached by flying into Brașov, then taking the local train either up to the trail’s starting point at Archita or joining it further along at Sighișoara.

The area’s German-origin population (‘Saxons’) settled in these valleys in the Middle Ages; however, most of them have now gone – the last Communist dictator of Romania, Nicolae Ceaușescu, sold them back to Germany. What they left behind is an undulating, gently pastoral land where the walking is straightforward.

Beyond Archita, Criţ is home to one of several fortified churches along the route that are set within 15th-century walls studded with towers. There’s another powerful church in Saschiz, a thriving community that is overlooked by an old fortress.
One of the more unique stops along this part of the trail is the village of Șapartoc, which is of Hungarian origin and is different in layout (and upkeep) to the Saxon villages.

The UNESCO-listed walled town of Sighișoara is next, followed by Biertan, whose landmark church is always busy with visitors. Lastly, little Richiș is filled with houses that have been refurbished by overseas owners who have fallen in love with this land.

This 276km section is the longest of the trail, and it also contains a lot of history, legends and nature – not to mention two national parks. Its first leg starts at Micăsasa, which is a 90-minute train ride from the nearest international airport at Sibiu.

Highlights include mountain ridges, traces of ‘dwarf dinosaurs’ and the landscapes of Fundătura Ponorului, a protected patchwork of valleys and orchards with Hobbit-like houses ringed by stone fences. You’ll also find the site of Sarmizegetusa Regia, which was the most important military, religious and political centre of the Dacians (regarded by many as the original Romanians) before the Roman Empire defeated them.

A key city along this part of the trail is Alba Iulia, a former residence of the princes of Transylvania and the place where the union of Transylvania with Romania was declared.

Scenically, this is initially a section of dreamy meadows mixed with a fair bit of town-to-town walking; then, as you progress into the second half, you’ll enter more remote areas.

Are there any dangers?

Not from people, no. And nor is there much threat from wildlife, although wolves are present and there are warning signs about bears. Most bear activity is at dawn or dusk, so if you are on the trail at that time, make plenty of noise when trekking through the heavy undergrowth. A bigger hazard are the shepherds’ dogs, which are trained to defend their flock, so bring a stick to ward off any who come to close.

Bike or hike?

Both are possible, although most users are on foot (and even a few on horseback). Gradients can be steep and surfaces are rough, so cycling can be challenging.

Finding your way

The route is well-mapped and waymarked, and mostly consists of cart tracks and footpaths. But because it’s still in its infancy, only a handful of tour operators offer guided itineraries so far. For example, The Slow Cyclist has a mix of walking and cycling on the Bucovina section (theslowcyclist.com).

Booking stays

The online trail guide (viatransilvanica.com/en/vt-guide) has plenty of recommendations for guesthouses. As a general rule, these are locally run and have only a handful of rooms (or camping options). Expect to pay about £25pp per night, plus £10 for dinner. It is vital to book ahead, especially if you want to eat.

Sighișoara

This city attracts significant visitor numbers, partly due to its history as the birthplace of Vlad Dracula (aka Vlad the Impaler), the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s famous vampire. (The model for Dracula’s castle, Bran, is down by Brașov). It is also a real beauty in its own right. Sighișoara’s medieval Old Town sits atop a hill, its narrow streets paved with ankle-snapping cobbles and surrounded by walls punctuated by towers, including the much-photographed clocktower. The Old Town square is filled with restaurant terraces that are ideal for people-watching.

Although it is about 12km from the nearest point of the trail (at Criţ), Viscri (aka Weisskirch) is the best preserved of the Saxon villages. Stuccoed gable ends are pastel-painted, often with some kind of scroll-work flourish and religious motif – in German. Visitors come for the whitewashed fortified church and for its connections to British royalty – King Charles III has had property here since 2006. The UK monarch also owns a guesthouse over in the Hungarian region of Transylvania at Zalanpatak
(zalan.transylvaniancastle.com).

Ride a horse and cart

Even if you don’t have a language in common, the villagers know that most visitors love a horse-and-cart ride into the hills, whether for a picnic or to visit a sheepfold. Your local accommodation will know who in the village to contact and should be able to advise on prices, which are, of course, negotiable.

Climb a church tower

The majority of the Saxon villages have a medieval church at the heart of the community, with many surrounded by thick walls and with a lookout at the top. Even if the church is not open, most will have a note on the gate indicating where to find the keyholder. Make the effort, because the climb up to these towers – and the resulting view – is well worth it. These villages are so orderly that it looks as if the Almighty has decreed that Transylvania’s valley bottoms should have parquet flooring: each house has its own yard, outhouses and a finger of land sufficient for fruit trees and pigs.

Festival time

Towards the end of July, the annual Icon Arts Festival (iconartsfestival.com) takes place across a selection of Saxon villages, as professional musicians perform a compendium of recognisable classics and original pieces in vintage settings. When we attended, the grand finale was held in a manor house in the village of Mălâncrav. Afterwards, both musicians and the audience mingled outside in a circle of chestnut trees on the lawn while enjoying a buffet made by the ladies of the village.

Saschiz: Casa de pe Deal

This village house is operated by local tour de force Anca and her French partner (and carpenter), Charlie. Rooms are traditional in style but come with beautifully tiled en-suite facilities. Anca is a fountain of knowledge; the couple also help re-home dogs. Doubles from £43pn; dinner and breakfast are also available. facebook.com/casadepedeal

Şapartoc: Şapartoc Traditional Romanian Village

Nestled on the outskirts of Şapartoc, this guesthouse is run by Radu and Andrea. It is arranged around four newly made en-suite rooms; tents are set up in the orchard and there is also a separately roofed dining area that has its own clay oven. Doubles from £43pn; dinner and breakfast are also available. facebook.com/sapartocvillage

Across the region: Rental houses

Restored traditional houses are available to rent in many of the Saxon villages found on the trail. They can be had for as little as £25pp per night. Expect bare floorboards, basic bathrooms and embroidery on the walls spelling out heartfelt messages in old German. Each of these properties has its own housekeeper, who can deliver a homemade dinner on request. experiencetransylvania.ro

Sighișoara: Casa Georgius Krauss

There’s a wide choice of charming stays in Sighișoara, but the smartest pick lies up in the UNESCO-listed Old Town. This handsome 17th-century property once belonged to the historian Georgius Krauss and is stuffed with original details, including four-poster beds. Doubles from £70pn. casakrauss.ro

“We are very proud of our thriving community in Saschiz. We have several very good places to stay, run by women cooking the best local dishes. In the Teahouse, guests can relax with a book and a unique local elderflower gin! There’s a pottery centre, gin distillery and a workshop making natural soaps. While staying here, you can visit the fortified, UNESCO-listed church and take a walk to the fortress on top of the hill. We are blessed with amazing natural, architectural and cultural heritage. The hospitality of the people completes the picture.”

Getting there & around

Wizzair (wizzair.com) flies regularly from London Luton to Suceava, Brașov and Sibiu airports from around £26 return, with flights taking around three hours. Alternatively, all three cities are on the national rail network, which has connections to international night trains from Budapest and Vienna. Details and tickets are available online (cfrcalatori.ro/en).

The local bus network is often quicker than rail, though getting up-to-date information is not easy; its booking site (autogari.ro)
does not always provide a full picture. If you prefer to target a couple of specific locations, car rental is available at the airports.

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Brașov produces 240kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/sustainable-travel.

Visa & currency

Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days.
Currency: Romanian Lei (RON) is currently RON6 to the UK£.

Further information

Visit romaniatourism.com for more details. Most local accommodation uses Facebook and WhatsApp to communicate.