Exploring Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four largest islands

“There’s an old saying in Japan that there are 8 million gods and every natural phenomenon could be one!” said my guide, Kumiko Endo. We were stood outside the opening of a cliffside cave that houses Miyazaki prefecture’s Udo Shrine. On this afternoon, the winds were strong and the waves were fierce, taking the shape of white horses that reared against the boulders below.

“There’s gods of the mountains, gods of the ocean, gods of the sun, gods of the rice fields…” Kumiko continued.

Looking around me, I could easily begin to understand the relationship between the natural elements and a higher power. As I continued my journey through Kyushu – home to forests, hot springs, volcanoes and waterfalls – this connection only grew stronger.

I started my road trip in Miyazaki, a prefecture where many famous Japanese legends are set. From there, I travelled on to neighbouring Kumamoto, known as ‘The Land of Fire’ due to its geothermal activity. Catching the shinkansen (bullet train) further south, I stopped off in Kagoshima, a city that lies precariously close to Japan’s most active volcano. Finally, I crossed the sea to subtropical Yakushima, a UNESCO-listed island around 60km off the coast of the mainland.

Along the way, I discovered how people and nature in Kyushu have coexisted for thousands of years. I also learnt how it shapes traditions that continue to live on today, from Shinto rituals and local cuisine to sustainable agriculture and hot-spring bathing.

The Miyazaki town of Takachiho is steeped in Japanese mythology. It was in a nearby cave that the Shinto sun goddess Amaterasu – a central figure in Japan’s origin story – was said to have once hidden herself. It’s easy to see why only Japan’s highest deities would have chosen to descend here. ‘Magical’ is the best word to describe Takachiho Gorge. Geologically, it was formed more than 100,000 years ago as a result of rapid-cooling lava, creating basalt columnar walls that rise up to 100m in parts.

Those who row on the river between the towering canyon walls float beneath the 17m-high Manai Falls, with the spray from the water forming rainbows on a sunny day. During my visit in late November, the reflections of red maples and golden ginkgos on the water made it utterly enchanting.

Not far from Takachiho is the central prefecture of Kumamoto. At its centre lies Japan’s largest active volcano, Mount Aso, rising out of an enormous ancient caldera. Consisting of five peaks, Mount Aso’s silhouette is often compared to a giant Buddha lying on his back, especially when seen from Daikanbō Viewpoint (936m) on a clear day. Visitors can get closer to the action with a 90-minute ascent to the summit of Mount Nakadake, the most active peak. Its crater contains a creamy green pool of water layered in clouds of smoke (but check that the trails are open before visiting).

Aso is renowned for its sustainable and historical agricultural practices, most notably the free-range livestock that manages the vast grasslands through its grazing. The grass-covered plains of Aso are rare in Japan; they’re also popular with visitors, who typically take them in either on foot or by horseback. Geology enthusiasts can learn more about the volcano and its surroundings at the Volcano Museum.

I continued my volcanic journey in the far south of Kyushu in Kagoshima, a city just 4km from Japan’s most active volcano. Sakurajima’s last major eruption took place in 1914, with the lava flow causing the formerly isolated stratovolcano to connect with Osumi Peninsula on the mainland. That said, it’s still easier for most visitors to catch a 20-minute ferry to get there. It continues to shoot plumes of ash into the sky almost every day, and you can visit observation decks on Sakurajima to get a closer look.

Approximately 60km off the coast of mainland Kyushu is Yakushima, one of Japan’s first Natural World Heritage sites. This 500 sq km subtropical island is recognised by UNESCO for its ancient cedar trees, known as yakusugi – many of which are more than 1,000 years old.

Another remarkable aspect of the island is its abundance of rainfall: people say it rains ‘35 days a month in Yakushima’. Although this might sound off-putting, it’s this mass of water that contributes to the island’s unique ecosystem – including the remarkable moss-blanketed forests that inspired the Studio Ghibli animated film Princess Mononoke. This famous moss site can be reached on a hike through Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine, taking approximately five hours to complete.

Yokagura is an 800-year-old Shinto ritual that incorporates chanting, dancing, drumming and elaborate masks that portray the Shinto deities. Usually performed on selected weekends between November and February, this cultural performance traditionally features 33 dances and lasts throughout the night. Luckily for visitors short on time, it can be experienced at the Takachiho Shrine on most evenings in an abbreviated, hour-long performance.

Do not leave Takachiho without trying the delicious kappo chicken, a local speciality created centuries ago by farmers. To try it, I travelled just outside the town, to a small inn named Kagura no Yakata (kagurano-yakata.com), where I was also taught how to carve my own bamboo container.

In Kagoshima, an endangered 1,300-year-old silk-weaving tradition is being kept alive. Originating from the island of Amami Ōshima – part of the Kagoshima prefecture – Ōshima Tsumugi silk pongee is said to be one of the world’s three great textiles. Historically used to make lightweight kimonos, the fabric is made with naturally dyed silk and is an extremely labour-intensive craft, with the process for creating just one kimono taking anywhere from six months to two years to complete. At Oose Shoten (oose1930.co.jp), a workshop founded in the 1930s, I learnt more about the silk’s high quality, witnessed the talented weavers at work and even tried my hand at threading on the wooden loom.

As a first-time visitor to Japan, it’s worth reading up on etiquette so you can be respectful of the country’s culture – and avoid embarrassment. Simple things such as removing your shoes before entering a traditional home or being quiet on public transport are important here. One of my favourite discoveries was that slurping noodles is a sign that you are enjoying your food, and it is even considered a compliment to the chef.

I couldn’t visit Japan without experiencing an onsen (hot spring bath). Kurokawa Onsen is a charming, wooden-structured town in Kumamoto, whose hot springs are a result of the geothermal activity in the area (predominantly from Mount Aso). Here, a pass from the visitor centre allows you to hop between three of the town’s 30-odd bathhouses, many of which have outdoor springs (known as rotenburo).

Onsen etiquette requires you to enter the water in the nude. But, if like me, this makes you feel a little uncomfortable at first, going early in the morning and on a weekday will likely allow you to experience it alone. If it’s still too daunting, many ryokans around the town have rooms with a private onsen, including where I stayed in Kurokawa (see ‘Anything Else’). But, after braving some of the public rotenburo, I’d encourage any nervous first-timers to take the plunge – it’s a wonderful way to immerse yourself in nature.

I sadly missed out on…

Turtle nesting season on Yakushima. From May to August, loggerhead turtles come ashore on the island at night to lay their eggs. Visitors can observe this natural phenomenon by booking onto expert-led tours that allow access to the beaches without causing distress to the turtles.

I stayed in several luxury properties across Kyushu. In Takachiho, Solest (solesttakachiho.com-hotel.info) has elegant rooms with modern Japanese furnishings, while Takachiho Ryokan Shinsen (takachiho-shinsen.co.jp) provides some of the best traditional hospitality I’ve encountered. I had a similar experience at Kurokawa’s Yamamizuki, a traditional onsen ryokan where each room lies in a separate thatched-roof building and several outdoor hot springs scatter the riverside (yamamizuki.com).

In Kagoshima, I stayed at the Sheraton (marriot.com), a modern hotel with unbeatable views of Sakurajima. Finally, Yakushima’s Samana Hotel (samanahotel.jp) perches on a clifftop overlooking the Pacific. Its interior is inspired by the island’s cedar trees, and the selection of rooms includes private hot-spring baths.

The author was supported by the Japanese National Tourism Organisation (JNTO). Visit japan.travel/en/uk to help plan your own Kyushu adventures

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