Adventures in Appalachia: where to go in West Virginia

“Almost heaven, West Virginia…” 

John Denver first crooned about his love for the Mountain State more than 50 years ago. But while many people are familiar with the “Country Roads” hit, West Virginia’s small towns and natural bounty have remained largely untapped by travellers. 

But now change is afoot. In 2020, New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, which protects a lush parcel of land in the state’s south, became the nation’s newest national park. And in 2023, it was among the USA’s top 20 most visited parks, pulling ahead of heavyweights such as Utah’s Arches and Florida’s Everglades. 

The appeal is obvious. The New River (contrarily the second-oldest river in the world) rushes through the Appalachian Mountains, its frothing whitewater offering some of the best rafting in the US. Trails are stitched into forested peaks and the New River Gorge Bridge provides dramatic photo opps. 

For a long time, coal was the lifeblood of rural West Virginia. But, in recent decades, mining jobs have dwindled and tourism has come to the fore. Now old railroads once vital to the coal industry have been turned into recreational trails and former mine workers are leading river and hiking excursions. 

Plan a trip to West Virginia with our area-by-area guide: 

Best for: White-water rafting, hiking, river views

Why go?  To discover the USA’s newest national park 

Nowhere does the ‘Mountain State’ nickname ring truer than in this bucolic swathe of West Virginia. Water is the lifeblood of the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve and the site’s eponymous waterway courses through a steep-sided and thickly forested ravine. 

The whitewater rafting here is considered some of the finest in the USA. Beginners should plump for the Upper New River, where the waters are generally calmer, while the Lower New River’s swirling, spitting rapids range from Class III to Class V. Take a rafting excursion with a local guide who’ll combine the watery rollercoaster with commentary on the park’s geology and history. Adventures on the Gorge offer a full-day guided rafting trip on the Lower New River, including lunch on the beach and the chance to swim in some of the river’s mellower stretches. 

Back on dry land, hiking trails wiggle into the Appalachian forest, which is thick with oak and maple trees. Cinematic views await in the Grandview area of the park: hiking routes such as the Grandview Rim Trail ascend through the area until the ground drops beneath you, revealing sweeping vistas of the river and the ravine below. 

Those who brave the Bridge Walk are rewarded with dizzying views too. The New River Gorge Bridge rises above the park and travellers with a stomach for heights can walk the bridge’s catwalk at an eye-watering 259m. It’s worth the weak knees: you’ll take in epic panoramas of the churning river below and see the woodland sweeping out in olive and emerald all around. 

Amid the region’s forest, peaks and waterfalls are some of West Virginia’s most charming towns too. Head out east to Lewisburg for independent art galleries, antique stores and performances at Carnegie Hall, or to Beckley, which is home to the Tamarack Marketplace, dedicated to West Virginian arts and crafts. Local vendors must go through a jury selection process and visitors will find an Aladdin’s cave of curios, from handmade brooms (a traditional Appalachian craft) to ceramics. Nearby Fayetteville is on the quirky side, with intimate live music venues, craft beer spots and a historic theatre.

Read next: What you need to know about visiting US national parks in 2025

Ask a local: Eve West, Chief of Interpretation and Visitor Services at New River Gorge National Park and Preserve

“I came here in 2010 expecting to stay three years and here I still am. I’ve moved all over the US with the National Park Service and we really have it all here in Southern West Virginia: tremendous natural resources, interesting stories of people and places, any type of outdoor recreation there is and some great people to share it with.”

Best for: Civil War history, legendary trails, quaint towns

Why go? For a deep-dive into the past

History buffs should set their sights on the state’s Eastern Panhandle, where Harpers Ferry National Historical Park unfolds in a series of 19th-century buildings and museums. Wander through Lower Town, whose historic spots include a boarding house decked out as if it were the Civil War era, and an 1850s tavern that once served as a community hub. On weekends, rangers lead tours and retell the past. Among the most important stories is that of abolitionist John Brown, who raided Harper’s Ferry in 1859 as part of his fight against slavery.

Ask a local: Matt Knott, Whitewater rafting guide and CEO at River Riders

 “Harpers Ferry is a great place to live and work. I’ve lived in the area for most of my life, having grown up here. I’ve also worked with, then owned River Riders since 1994. While my wife and I do a good bit of travelling, we always say how lucky we are when we get back home. Driving across the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers and seeing the view of the rivers and the mountains ‘was worth the trip across the Atlantic’ as Thomas Jefferson said.”

Harper’s Ferry has a sought-after location too, unfolding at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. The Maryland Heights Trail reveals yet more history, passing a Civil War-era Naval Battery, and includes stretches along the historic Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, which dates back almost a century. You’ll also brush with the storied Appalachian Trail, which sweeps all the way from Maine to Georgia, revealing views of forested mountains and waterways. 

Take a quick jaunt to the north and you’ll reach Shepherdstown, the oldest town in West Virginia. There’s more Civil War history to be discovered here – the entire town served as a Confederate hospital during the conflict and the pivotal Battle of Antietam was fought just across the Potomac River, in Maryland. But Shepherdstown has a young spirit, too. Wander the streets and find swish New American restaurants and indie boutiques hiding in centuries-old buildings.

Read next: Diving into the past in Virginia’s Historic Triangle

Best for: New Appalachian cuisine, art and architecture, live music

Why go? For a dose of culture in the Mountain State’s urban centres

Charleston is West Virginia’s largest city and its historic capital. No trip would be complete without a guided tour of the West Virginia State Capitol, whose gigantic gold dome is actually taller than that of the United States Capitol in Washington DC. The West Virginia Culture Center and State Museum is also part of the Capitol Complex, exploring everything from the state’s natural history to its defining coal industry. 

Ask a local: Chef Paul Smith, 1010 Bridge and The Pitch

“I love the people of Charleston and I never felt like I was truly home when I wasn’t in West Virginia. I love that it’s centrally located and I really think that when people come to West Virginia they are taking something great with them, like a special memory or interaction with a local. I am lucky enough to be a West Virginian by birth and by choice.”

This is the place to take a bite out of the state, too. Capitol Market is a gourmand’s paradise: pop in to find vendors dishing up everything from sushi to tacos to barbecue, and discover artisans selling West Virginian-made crafts such as quilts and glassware. 

You’ll find some of the most imaginative restaurants in the state here. A string of them are spearheaded by Chef Paul Smith, the first James Beard Award winner in West Virginia. Stop by the upscale 1010 Bridge for creative New American food (think ‘Nashville hot’ oysters and apple pie bread pudding).

Drive around an hour west and you’ll eventually hit Huntington, the state’s second most populous city and another cultural hub. Don’t miss live music at The Loud, whose stage hosts regional rock bands and open mic nights. Or catch a show at the Keith-Albee Theatre (fresh from major renovations). This beloved local landmark is as well known for its impressive Spanish Baroque-style architecture as it is for its performances. 

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Best for: nature-filled road trips, waterfalls, mountain views 

Why go? To get into the great outdoors

Conjure the classic image of West Virginia – all forested mountains, waterfalls and wiggling country roads – and the Potomac Highlands region perfectly fits the bill. This is one of the most bucolic slices of the states, brimming with opportunities for scenic road trips and outdoor adventures. 

A jewel of the region is Blackwater Falls State Park. Parcelled into the Allegheny Mountains, the park draws walkers with its forested hiking trails and eponymous waterfall. The 17m cascade loves the camera, crashing dramatically over terraced rock, its curtains of water tinged orange by the acidic needles of red spruce and hemlock trees. The park also protects Elakala Falls, a string of four waterfalls reached via the Elakala to Yellow Birch Trail. Both are stops along West Virginia’s Waterfall Trail, a route that connects 43 waterfalls across the whole state.

After an hour driving south through the West Virginia countryside, you’ll reach Spruce Knob, the highest point in the state. Hikes strike across the mountain, with the 0.8km Whispering Spruce Trail leading to a soaring observation tower. 

A final highlight of the region is the Cass Scenic Railroad State Park. Steam locomotives clatter up Cheat Mountain, offering far-reaching valley views. Hop off and hike in the peaks, before catching the train back down. 

Read next: What to see and do in Northwest Arkansas

Ask a local: Jill Malusk, National Radio Astronomy Observatory Public Information Manager

“The Potomac Highlands has amazing scenery, trails, rivers and mountains. If you live here it feels like you’re always on vacation, all seasons. There is always something to do outdoors or explore in our amazing towns, from festivals to races to concerts. I love going on a long mountain bike ride around Thomas, Davis, Parsons and Blackwater Falls State Park, then grabbing an iced coffee from Tip Top, a pizza from Almost Heaven Pizza and Spirits, and exploring the galleries and boutiques. Some pretty special places are hidden away in the Highlands, like the Green Bank Telescope, one of the largest telescopes of its kind in the world.”

Need to know

Fly to Charleston’s West Virginia International Yeager Airport via gateways such as Atlanta. For more information, see wvtourism.com.