Exploring the history of Peru’s Arequipa through its architecture 

Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru, is nestled in the embrace of three imposing volcanoes – Misti, Chachani and Pichu Pichu – and bisected by the cascading waters of the Chili River. Founded in the 16th century, it is a vibrant community with rich cultural and culinary traditions, surrounded by an arresting expanse of Andean mountains. Existing with the ever-present threat of seismic activity, the city has been repeatedly reconstructed, and Arequipa’s architecture is reflection of this layered past. 

The city is a dynamic patchwork of influences, including Indigenous foundations, Baroque splendour, Rococo and neoclassical designs, 19th century modern empiricism and contemporary buildings. Each style reveals the city’s endurance through the centuries and the ability of opposites to co-exist in one space. 

Arequipa is a city of many names – the City of Eternal Spring, the Rebellious City, Ari qhipay (meaning “let’s stay here” in native Quechuan). Yet one name speaks directly to the city’s architectural personality: The White City. When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the 16th century, they found an abundance of white, volcanic stone called sillar. The stone is soft, lightweight and durable – ideal for the construction of their grand colonial city, and they used it to build churches, public buildings and casonas (family mansions). Many of these buildings are now protected by the city centre’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you travel to the region today, you can visit La Ruta del Sillar (the Sillar Route) where the stone originates. Tour guides will lead you through striking quarries and ravines that gleam white in the sun, and local artists have erected large, sillar sculptures along the way. You can buy small carvings to take home as a souvenir or traditional “cheese” ice cream – not to disappoint you, but it doesn’t actually contain cheese. 

At the heart of the city you’ll find the Plaza de Armas, a large public square flanked by the magnificent Basilica Cathedral, the municipality, and the church and cloisters of La Compañia. The square has an abundance of sturdy archways, porticos and courtyards and it is usually occupied by animated throngs of tourists and locals. This is where construction began after Garci Manuel de Carbajal founded the city on 15 August 1540. Since then, the square has faced decimation from earthquakes and fires, and its blend of architectural styles is proof of its resilience. 

The Basilica Cathedral is a resplendent figure, jutting proudly into the sky against a backdrop of natural beauty – and proud it should be, with its long history of rising from the ashes. Originally built in 1656, the cathedral was destroyed by a fire in 1844 and then again by an earthquake in 1868. Having been rebuilt twice, it faced another partial decimation in 2001 and it now exists as a blend of neo renaissance and gothic influences with sweeping arches and elaborate ornamentation. In contrast, the neighbouring church of La Compañia, built in the late 18th century, is the embodiment of churrigueresque architecture (Spanish Baroque). It is characterised by intricately-carved stone details and a gold leaf covered altar which make this dainty church worth a visit. 

In the district of San Lázaro, close to the Historical Centre of Arequipa, the layout of an Indigenous hamlet has survived making this the oldest group of houses in the city. Its origin predates the city’s foundation, and it was likely occupied by Indigenous cultures such as the Yarabas, Collas, Lupacas, Tiahuanacos and more before the Incas arrived. Here you’ll find narrow, cobblestone streets, uneven floors, and an undisturbed silence, surrounded by white houses and a small chapel. 

This labyrinthine network of brightly-coloured streets stretch over 20,000 square metres and were built in 1579 as a cloister for Dominican nuns. Encased by towering walls, walking into Santa Catalina Monastery feels like entering a historic past, where the bustle of the city is muffled to a gentle hum. The walls are painted in shades of blue and terracotta, potted plants and orange trees line the walkways and oddly-placed staircases descend from solid walls – it is easy to lose your way and discover a secluded courtyard, plaza or chapel. Domed ceilings expand the space inside and impressive, Baroque artworks adorn some of the interiors. The convent is renowned as a colonial architectural masterpiece, and once housed approximately 450 people. Now, only a small religious community remain. 

In recent years, air pollution, seismic activity and the presence of salts have created cracks in the roof and the displacement of stones. In 2008, Santa Catalina was placed on the World Monuments Watch to highlight its vulnerable state.