“People don’t think of Greece as being a very green place – but wait until you see this.” My driver Alex had assumed right: my knowledge of Greece stopped at its islands and ancient ruins. But instead of sun-drenched beaches lapped by sparkling seas, I was heading to the little-visited north of the mainland and a region that has recently found itself in the limelight, thanks largely to UNESCO.
As we drove along winding roads into the Pindus Mountains, the region of Zagori slowly revealed itself: an undulating landscape of limestone peaks blanketed in verdant fir and pine forests, speckled with ancient settlements. I felt giddy to be spending several days uncovering a side to the country that had once remained hidden for centuries.
The region, which covers a 1,000 sq km area, was inscribed as a World Heritage site in 2023 for its cultural landscape. It’s considered one of the most timeless places in Greece, largely due to its history as an autonomous region. For context: while the majority of Greece was under Ottoman rule from the 15th century until the start of the Greek War of Independence in 1821, Zagori remained autonomous thanks to a treaty that allowed its 46 stone-built villages to keep their independence and traditions intact.
Much of the region lies within the Vikos-Aoös National Park. This wild landscape is a habitat for bears, wolves, otters, wild boars, wild horses and more than 180 species of bird, including golden eagles and falcons. Furthermore, 1,700 herb and plant species grow here, many historically used by local people for their healing properties, making the region famous across the Balkans for its herbal medicine.
If that wasn’t enough, the regional geology of the mountains and rock formations span around 35 million years, with some of the deepest parts of Vikos Gorge estimated to be 160 million years old.
Highlights
Built from local materials, including stone, slate and wood, the architecture of Zagori is almost an extension of the mountains themselves. Strict rules have been put in place for how properties can be restored or built, to maintain the heritage of the area and avoid modernisation. In fact, modern tarmac roads around the region were only constructed here in the 1950s, finally making it accessible to outsiders. Up until then, villages were connected by cobbled paths known as kalderimia, designed for donkeys and horses to pull carts.
Logging and livestock farming were once the main sources of income for communities here; today, the villages of Zagori survive mostly from the support of visitors. Some have active communities with thriving small businesses – from cafés to shops selling honey – while others have sadly been left derelict, with mansions and schools slowly lost to nature.
Monodendri is one of the more vibrant villages of Central Zagori, sitting at an altitude of 1,060m. Like most places in the region, it flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries; however, a community existed here long before then. The 1413-founded monastery of Agia Paraskev, hanging over the edge of Vikos Gorge, is evidence of this. Walk ten minutes down cobbled pathways to the monastery remains and not only will you find a well-preserved chapel decorated with 400-year-old frescoes, but also one of the greatest vistas of the canyon.
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Back in the village square, Rizarios Handicraft School is housed in a restored mansion and trains young people in traditional crafts such as weaving and embroidery – the results of which are often sold in the onsite shop.
The villages of Megalo Papigo and Mikro Papigo in Western Zagori are often considered the most beautiful due to their setting, beneath the peaks of Mount Tymfi. The approaching road includes many hairpin – and hair-raising – bends, but they’re worth the journey. Mikro Papigo is also the starting point for the impressive hike up to Dragon Lake, which sits at an elevation of 2,050m.
Another of Zagori’s key sights is its network of stone bridges. Around 100 of these elegant arched structures can be found dotted across the area. Many are still walkable; others have crumbled over the centuries. Close to the village of Kipi are several excellent examples of 18th-century bridges, including the single-arched Lazaridi and the triple-arched Mylos and Plakida bridges.
Must-do
Vikos-Aoös National Park offers an extensive list of outdoor adventures within its phenomenal natural landscape. Perhaps the best way to immerse yourself in the wilderness is by walking one of the region’s 100 (and counting) hiking trails.
The most popular route is the 13km trek through Vikos Gorge, which – according to the Guinness Book of World Records – is one of the deepest canyons in the world in proportion to its width. Its rock walls descend more than 900m in parts, while the hike takes approximately six to eight hours to complete, beginning in Monodendri and ending in Vikos. These villages also offer two of the most incredible canyon viewpoints, though the Oxya lookout near Monodendri is only suited to those with a head for heights.
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Trickling through the gorge valley is Voïdomatis River, considered one of the cleanest rivers in Europe. This relatively gentle waterway offers a good beginner’s introduction to rafting, as its turquoise-blue waters and Grade I and II rapids push past caves and canyon walls through a shaded canopy of tree branches. Along the way are small white-stone beaches that you can take a break on and enjoy a rejuvenating dip in the river’s icy waters (its temperatures never exceed 4°C). The rafting typically ends at the historic Klidonia bridge, dropping down a small-yet-thrilling artificial waterfall under the capable guidance of your experienced rafting guide.
Top tip
The rock pools hidden between the villages of Mikro Papigo and Megalo Papigo provide a beautiful location for a few hours of relaxation in nature. As you climb up the smooth, white rocks to reach them, you will likely find your own secluded spot to swim in the clear waters. Clusters of blue butterflies gather around this mineral-rich area, making it feel even more enchanting.
I wish I’d known…
How Zagori transforms throughout the seasons. I visited in spring, when the landscape is carpeted in white, yellow and lilac wildflowers and the waters of the Voïdomatis flow at their strongest. Summer promises little rainfall but cooler temperatures than anywhere else in Greece, and autumn transforms the luscious green foliage into shades of ochre and gold. All three seasons are suitable for hiking, while winter brings with it snowfall and the possibility for snowshoeing and skiing in the nearby resorts.
Cautionary tale
If you want to explore the region independently, it’s best to hire a car, but you will need to be comfortable navigating steep mountain roads and hairpin bends. Alternatively, you can arrange a transfer from the airport (Preveza Aktion, two hours away) to your accommodation and either explore the local area on foot or book guided tours to explore further (recommended).
Anything else?
I stayed at Aristi Mountain Resort and Villas in the village of Aristi, which sits on the border of the national park. The resort is made up of a series of mountain lodges housing double rooms and executive suites with private balconies or terraces that look out across to the Astraka peaks and entrance to Vikos Gorge. Its facilities include an indoor and outdoor spa where you can enjoy treatments.
The menu at Arisiti Mountain Resort’s onsite restaurant, Salvia, is inspired by traditional dishes created with seasonal produce grown in the hotel’s own greenhouse. Astra Restaurant in Megalo Papigo also grows its own fruit and vegetables in its picturesque three-level garden. Meanwhile, lovers of mushrooms can head to Vitsa-based restaurant Kanella & Garyfallo for a unique menu devoted to fungus.
The author travelled with support from Aristi Mountain Resort and Villas and the Greek National Tourism Organisation.
