Argentina is no stranger to a dramatic landscape: take Iguazú Falls sitting on the northern border with Brazil, for example, or Perito Moreno Glacier in Southern Patagonia. But sometimes, you don’t need to be amongst the giants of nature to have an unforgettable experience, and travellers that head to the country’s rural heart will be rewarded with a crowd-free nature escape rooted in Argentine tradition.
Tucked away in the little-known Sierras Chichas, approximately an hour’s drive from the city of Córdoba, is Estancia Los Potreros. More fondly known as ‘Los Pots’, the 6,500-acre working cattle farm has been a part of the Begg family (originally from Scotland) for more than a century. In 2001, fourth-generation owner – and proud Anglo-Argentinean – Kevin Begg decided to open its gates to tourism. Nearly 25 years later, Los Potreros is the place to go to escape the country’s bustling cities for a piece of authentic estancia life. Renowned for its horse riding and gaucho (Argentine cowboys) culture, the stay also offers nature walks, ranch drives, birdwatching and even a spot of polo.
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Most rooms look over the front paddock where the horses graze (Estancia Los Potreros) -
Visitors are taught how to ride as the gauchos do: loose-reined and one-handed (Estancia Los Potreros) -
The daily gallops through the pampas that bring the biggest thrill (Estancia Los Potreros) -
The majority of guests go for the riding (Estancia Los Potreros)
But it’s the horse riding that has built Los Potreros’ distinguished reputation, attracting a range of clientele from around the world, from curious beginners to lifelong horse lovers. Each day, guests are partnered up with one of the estancia’s 140 gentle-natured horses and taught to ride how the gauchos do: loose-reined and one-handed. Accompanied by a gaucho and an English-speaking guide, rides follow various trails through pastures and up rock-dotted hills, spotting exciting birdlife such as burrowing owls and condors en route. A personal highlight was a ride to the ‘Top of the World’, the highest point of the estancia offering vistas across the rolling sierras and towards Córdoba. There’s also a route to a secluded waterfall, perfect for a lemonade break and a private swim, while more adventurous riders might get to join the gauchos as they work, rounding up the estancia’s prize herd of Aberdeen Angus cattle. But ultimately, it’s the daily gallops through the pampas that bring the biggest thrill, with even beginners gaining the confidence to join in by the end of their stay.
After daytime activities, guests reunite around a long dining table for homecooked, family-style meals hosted by Kevin or one of the Los Potreros team, whether in the garden, on the veranda or indoor dining rooms. This intimate seating arrangement along with lack of digital devices encourages lengthy, social meals filled with conversations and stories – a traditional way of dining passed down through the country’s Italian ancestors.
Being on a cattle farm, naturally asado (barbequed beef) is a highlight, from succulent steaks to sweetbreads cooked on the parrilla. Lighter pizza and pastas dishes are also an important part of the menu, with all mains accompanied by fresh salads, grilled vegetables and a selection of the finest local wines. Expect surprise entertainment around dinner time, whether learning to make empanadas in the kitchen with the skilled Los Potreros chefs, or music nights where local singers perform Argentine classics with varied instruments – and perhaps one or two of their favourite Rolling Stones hits thrown in.
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Though stays are focused more on the experience than the accommodation, the historic property is central to Los Potreros’ character (Estancia Los Potreros) -
The simplistic interiors of its seven unique rooms feature wooden beams, antique furniture, and log-burning stoves (Estancia Los Potreros) -
In Los Pots’ kitchen, you can learn how to make traditional dishes (Estancia Los Potreros)
Though stays are focused more on the experience than the accommodation, the historic property is central to Los Potreros’ charm. The 250-year-old stone and adobe mudbrick farm buildings have white facades and pillars, red corrugated rooftops and wooden window frames – some of which have been carved out using old cartwheels. Most rooms overlook the front paddock where horses graze, usually with a foal or two in tow: it’s an enchanting scene to wake up to.
The simplistic interiors of its seven unique rooms feature wooden beams, antique furniture, and log-burning stoves for guests visiting during the colder months. The bathrooms have a tad more of a contemporary touch, with recently added walk-in showers replacing former tubs. Los Potreros only joined the modern world of electricity in the early 2000s, with rooms previously being lit by paraffin lamps. The lamps – along with other historic and equestrian-related relics – remain as decor, but today, the estancia is proudly powered by renewable solar and wind energy.
Upgrades may now cater to the needs of the modern-day guest and the sustainable running of Los Potreros, but its storied past remains intact. Black-and-white photographs of the Beggs are displayed around the property, capturing estancia settings that have little changed over the decades. Kevin brings these photos to life, recounting stories of his childhood growing up in this paradisiacal pocket of Argentina. Besides the horses, it’s the commitment to preservation that makes Los Potreros a special place – and not just of the Begg family’s fascinating history, but of the endangered traditions and culture of Argentina’s rural communities.
More information: A 3-6 night stay at Estancia Los Potreros is priced at US$645 (£508) per person, per night. A discount is provided for longer reservations. All activities included in this review are not guaranteed for shorter stays. Learn more at estancialospotreros.com
