Riding The Ghan between Darwin and Adelaide, Australia

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, before roads and railways cut through the inhospitable heart of Australia, the task of moving passengers and goods between coastal cities and isolated towns, mines, farms and ranches fell to camel drivers. These hardy cameleers were dubbed the ‘Ghans’, though they hailed not just from Afghanistan but from what is now India, Pakistan, Iran and Türkiye.

By facilitating the construction of train tracks across the Outback, these unsung pioneers ultimately rendered themselves redundant. But they live on today, in name at least, in one of the world’s great railway services. Dating back to 1929, The Ghan is a luxurious line travelling between Darwin (Northern Territory) and Adelaide (South Australia) via Katherine and Alice Springs. En route it passes through the Martian-like terrain of the Red Centre, offering glimpses of some of the most dramatic landscapes on Earth

Reading about the exploits of the original Ghans from the comfort of an opulent train while zipping across the Outback is a pleasurable, if slightly guilt-inducing, experience. In contrast to the countless hardships faced by the cameleers on their epic journeys, passengers on The Ghan enjoy a serene ride. The on-board service and accommodation fully equipped en-suite cabins with picture-book windows are five-star; the same can be said for the dining.The train’s route spans 2,979km the equivalent of travelling from London to Rome and back again  and the all-inclusive fares feature a variety of off-train experiences along the way. These include dawn-lit al-fresco breakfasts; cruises through the geologically and culturally rich Nitmiluk Gorge; visits to the West MacDonnell Ranges to spot wildlife such as bilbies, wallabies and raptors; and cycle tours along the Ilentye Trail, which meanders through the Todd River and Alice Springs countryside.

Alongside the standard three-day Darwin-Adelaide journey, there is an extended four day ‘Expedition’ option that includes an off-train experience at the underground opal mining town of Coober Pedy. Helicopter rides are also available for a supplement fee. I found that the greatest pleasure of the Ghan is sitting back and watching the landscapes gradually unfurl over the course of the route. Gazing out as the seemingly endless ochre desert periodically gives way to swathes of scrubland, wind-sculpted escarpments and rippling expanses of golden grasslands fills you with admiration for the Ghans who made this journey possible.

Highlights from the route

At the ‘Top End’ of Australia, lying closer to Indonesia than to Sydney, is Darwin, a youthful, cosmopolitan city that is often overlooked by travellers. Its proximity to Asia has given the capital of the Northern Territory a cosmopolitan population, reflected in the local cuisine. Laksa, a spicy noodle soup found across South-East Asia, has even become the city’s signature dish. The nightlife is kicking, too.

Compact and walkable, Darwin is home to a scattering of architectural gems, most notably the Gothic Revival Government House. It’s a good base for exploring the surrounding region, too, including a pair of national parks: Kakadu and Litchfield. The former has lots of wildlife and remarkable rock art dating back 20,000 years, while the other offers superb bush walking and birdwatching.

Located in the centre of Australia, between the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, far flung Alice Springs is more than a gateway to Uluru. The Ghan’s off-train excursions allow you to learn about the rich history and heritage of the city, including its School of the Air the world’s largest classroom, providing education to children in remote areas across the Outback and the Royal Flying Doctor Service museum.

Within easy striking distance is the 80m-deep Angkerle Atwatye gorge and Alice Springs Desert Park, which immerses visitors in the culture of the Arrernte people, the Traditional Custodians of Alice Springs and the surrounding region, who have lived here for millennia. Meanwhile, the Alice Springs Reptile Centre plays host to thorny devils and frill-neck lizards.

Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, is a cultured, easy-going city awash with parks, botanic gardens and handsome Victorian architecture, all surrounded by wineries. Alongside its museums, galleries and cultural spaces, there is a packed calendar of events, including the six-week Adelaide Fringe, the biggest arts festival in the southern hemisphere.

A culinary hotspot that draws on its multicultural roots, Adelaide is the jumping-off point for cruises and houseboat trips on the Murray River and visits to the reserves and seaside towns of the Fleurieu and Yorke peninsulas. The world-class vineyards of the Barossa Valley and the abundant wildlife of Kangaroo Island area also close at hand.

Journey Beyond Rail, operator of The Ghan, has two similarly luxurious, all-inclusive long-distance rail-way journeys, both of which feature off-train experiences and excursions. The first of these is the transcontinental Indian Pacific – named after the oceans at either end of the route – which travels 4,352km between Sydney and Perth via Adelaide. Taking in the UNESCO-listed Blue Mountains, the Barossa Valley and the gold-mining hub of Kalgoorlie, the full journey takes from four to five days three and four days. Depending on which way you do it, there are stops in cities such as Canberra and Melbourne, as well as the vineyards of the Hunter Valley and the markets and mountains of Coffs Harbour. It is also possible to extend your journey on The Ghan by taking the four-day ‘Expedition’ trip, which includes a visit to the isolated opal mining settlement of Coober Pedy, known for its underground dwellings, built to avoid the blistering heat. Journey Beyond Rail runs the Overland, too, a simpler passenger service between Melbourne and Adelaide

Need to know

The Ghan Operated by Journey Beyond Rail, The Ghan (journeybeyondrail.com.au) currently has three classes of cabin – Platinum, Gold Premium and Gold, in descending order of price, cabin size and amenities though all the options provide an eminently comfortable stay. Ultra-luxurious Aurora and Australis suites will also be available from 2026.The following fares for the full Darwin Adelaide route are all per person (based on two sharing a cabin) and include transfers, full board and off-train experiences: Platinum from £2,618; Gold Premium from £1,760; and Gold from £1,458.You can also start or finish mid-way in Alice Springs. Whichever route you choose, The Ghan is very popular, so it is advisable to book months in advance, particularly if you want to snag the cheapest fares.